After reading two fairly recent posts on The Heavy Table (Twin Cities Pie Tasting where SPC ran away with the win and a great post about being in Stockholm and what to do) about Stockholm, WI’s Stockholm Pie Company, I decided to surprise The Wife with a nice Sunday drive through Miesville and Red Wing and then down part of Wisconsin’s Great River Road to get some pie. After finally breaking the surprise to The Wife, she provided a slew of information which we could use on our drive to further explore and enjoy it. While I originally had no intention of writing up the pie place as it’s been done many times before, the overall trip was one that is definitely worth your time, regardless of season, and one we both highly recommend you try.
The drive itself is scenic and beautiful. It begins on US-52 and heads through Miesville and into Red Wing before crossing the Mississippi into Wisconsin. The drive through the rolling farm fields of Miesville turns into a bob and dodge through the river bluffs of Red Wing. Crossing the bridge into Wisconsin is wonderful, as is the availability of beer on the forbidden day. Once you’re on the Wisconsin Great River Road, you’re driving through twisting curves with steep and wooded river bluffs on one side and gorgeous Lake Pepin on the other. The vista views available from numerous overlooks and wayside rests may be unparalleled anywhere nearby. A previous trip at sunrise along the road several years ago brought with it a sunrise I will never forget.
The area along highway 35 is steeped in history and a wonderfully done audiobook tour of that history is freely available for you to enjoy while you take the drive. While the trip to Stockholm seemed to roll quickly by even though we were driving the speed limit and making numerous stops to enjoy the sights, without the audiobook the return trip seemed to stretch on forever.
Once we arrived in the tiny town of Stockholm, home to a very large arts festival which draws nearly 9,000 people, we were surprised at just how tiny it was. Home to less than 100 residents, the downtown took up maybe 1/4 of a city block total. There were several restaurants, many kitsch shops, an Inn and even an Amish furniture store. The town appears very dog friendly with several water dishes out and one store having a sign which told you when the resident canine was in. While we enjoyed wandering the shops, the main reason for our visit was to eat the treats available at the Stockholm Pie Company.
Offering 15 or so different pies at a very reasonable $3.50 a slice ($1 more for a single scoop of ice cream), we chose French Silk with ice cream and Coconut Cream along with two sodas and a 6″ cherry pie ($6.80) to take home. We sat at a small counter with red leather stools and spun around a few times before digging in. The coconut cream pie was heavenly. The whipped cream on top was nearly like ice cream itself, not light and fluffy but heavy and tasty. While I am not generally into crusts, this one was flavorful and tasty and I didn’t leave a single little crumb on the plate. The Wife’s French Silk was like none I’ve ever had before. Not light and smooth, this was heavy and dense–almost like fudge. The Wife ate far more of it than I did but gave me the last bite noting that it was just too filling for her to take any more.
On our way home we stopped for some Spotted Cow at a gas station, taking the last six-pack, and headed back through Miesville to stop for lunch at King’s Place. Always a treat, we ordered some fried green beans and two burgers (Miesville Burger for The Wife and some burger with coleslaw, a hot dog, swiss cheese and sweet chili for me). While The Nook still has my vote for best burger in the state, Miesville is definitely worth a visit if you’ve never been and it was certainly a great way to top off a nice Sunday drive.
Have you ever been to Stockholm or any of the other cities along 35 in WI? What do you like best about the Great River Road? Where do you like to eat or shop? What wayside rests or other scenic overlooks do you frequent? Even if you haven’t been there, what other areas do you like to take day trips to? Whatever you have to say about this one go ahead and comment on as I’d love to hear your thoughts and ideas.
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August 22nd, 2011 at 8:09 am
Sounds like a fun time. Curious what you thought of those Spring Grove sodas in the photo. I discovered those from Nate Dogs, the hot dog cart downtown that uses all local ingredients, makes his own mustards, etc. (tangent: I very strongly recommend finding Nate Dogs and giving him a try)
Anyway, they make a great soda and they’re located down in SE Minnesota.
August 22nd, 2011 at 8:14 am
MSPD,
1. I liked that they were local.
2. I liked that they used some cane sugar but they still had HFCS as well. Why bother unless you’re just adding a tiny bit of cane to put it on your label?
3. I liked they were caffeine free.
4. We had the “Lemon Sour” and the “Cream Soda”. The cream soda was dark colored and didn’t taste much like cream soda I’ve grown accustomed to. I don’t know if this is because they are making it in a more traditional sense or what. I wouldn’t get that one again.
However I *loved* the lemon sour. Very tart and very good. I like strong sour flavors as much as I like hot so it was perfect for me. A side note: The Rooster was getting small sips of both and he kept pointing towards the lemon sour over the cream.
August 22nd, 2011 at 8:32 am
The road trip to Stockholm is one of our favorites, it’s a photographers dream. In the fall, when the leaves are in full color, the vistas will take your breath away with their beauty. Once we get to Stockholm, after poking our heads into the shops, the discussion turns to eating and liquid refreshment. Sometimes we head further south to the town of Lake Pepin and The Harbor View Cafe. If we don’t continue south we usually eat at Gelly’s Pub (my choice), or The Bogus Creek Cafe (The Queen’s choice). Always a great time.
August 22nd, 2011 at 10:32 am
We love to make a day trip in the fall down along the river bluff country. Don’t be afraid to take some lesser traveled county roads that lead into Lake City or Wabasha. Pretty country, and we ran across an old, almost abandoned cemetery with markers from the mid 1800′s. (I like history, what can I say? ) Anyway, if you go down to Wabasha, cross over to WI; into the town of Nelson. Take 35 south a block or two and there is Nelson Cheese Factory on your right. Very busy place with cheese, pizza, ice cream, gifts… etc. My advice, go 1/2 block farther and on your left is a little place called, Beth’s Twin Bluffs Cafe. You won’t find anything fancy but you will find good, homecooked, old-fashioned diner food. They have a printed menu, plus the, “chalkboard” with specials and all the pies! I am talking real roast beef with gravy over toast with mashed potatoes. They may have meatloaf, fried chicken, or roasted duck, which I had the first time we came here. It was 1/2 a duck with salad, potatoes, stuffing and gravy for like $8.95 They have a great sandwiches also. This is were the locals go so, there are some, “seed-cap” wearing, old farmers with their wifes. Like I said, nothing fancy but good home cooked food.
Further south on 35, you come to the town of Alma. There are some little shops and a few places to eat worth going to. There is a lock and dam right off the highway there and a busy freight train line. You can walk over the tracks on an open mesh type, pedestrian bridge and if you stand there for a while, you will experience what it feels like to have a train come way to close to you! LOL. Now, the town has a park high up on the bluffs. Look for a sign on the edge of town or ask a local. It is worth the short drive up the hill and a short walk to see the vast river bluff views !
Now, going back north on 35, just before you get to Stockholm, there is the town of Pepin. Drive down along the river there and there is a place called, The Pickle Factory. Typical little WI bar/restaurant, that has a deck over looking the river. Pretty good food, friendly people and yes, deep fried pickles ! They are actually pretty good !
That is my 2 cents worth. There are so many places to mention, like the bakery in Maiden Rock, (I think) and the Old Barn Pizza place, somewhere near there also.
I hope I can afford the gas this year! :-}
August 22nd, 2011 at 11:18 am
Thanks Bill. I hadn’t taken note of the ingredients.
I loved the Lemon Sour as well. Always fun to find a local(ish) Minnesota product that’s good.
August 22nd, 2011 at 11:31 am
We love the Stockholm trip as well.
Bill, I saw the inclusion of the questionable phrase “vista view” in your article. This reminds me of when our son was in elementary school at….Vista View Elementary! He decided that the name of the school was redundant. :)
August 22nd, 2011 at 11:34 am
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August 22nd, 2011 at 11:43 am
1. I’m growing tired of the nitpicky bullshit about my writing. Get over it and yourself.
2. I have all my teeth TYVM.
August 22nd, 2011 at 11:58 am
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August 22nd, 2011 at 12:30 pm
The difference is that the majority of us come here to read what Bill has to say on a topic, not to critique his dietary habits.
August 22nd, 2011 at 12:44 pm
I like to start the drive at Prescott, one of my favorite places on earth. For people with kids, particularly daughters, don’t forget to stop at the location of the very first of the Laura Ingalls Wilder books. There’s not much to see at the homestead, but still, it gives a bit of immediacy to the books. My favorite thing are the bald eagles soaring around the car.
August 22nd, 2011 at 2:55 pm
Just a little bit farther (further?) south and you could have hit Nelson, and the Nelson Creamery. Good sandwiches & ice cream. Always a favorite when we’re on the motorcycles in that neck of the woods.
August 22nd, 2011 at 9:46 pm
I’m not much of a day-tripper, but that pie is making me reconsider.
August 22nd, 2011 at 9:53 pm
chapter&verse does get out of apple valley once in a while??
bb
August 22nd, 2011 at 10:17 pm
bb
Only when I chew through the straps. But they always come and find me again. Perhaps I should wear different attire when I’m out so I blend in…
August 23rd, 2011 at 4:41 am
[...] Nea this week, praise for Broder’s Pasta Bar, a lemon-inspired dessert table, Bill Roehl takes a food tour through Miesville (home of King’s Place), Red Wing, and Stockholm (our Stockholm roundup is here), [...]
August 23rd, 2011 at 3:58 pm
Don’t forget Maiden Rock Apples, just east of the river down some beautiful country roads in Maiden Rock, WI. The owners, Herdie and Carol Baisden, are great people and they are doing wonderful things with cider at the orchard, on top of the usual offerings.
August 23rd, 2011 at 7:46 pm
I love starting our trip at the Harbor Bar. It is truly a dive, but the jerk chicken is fantastic! Just don’t go there at night!
August 24th, 2011 at 9:52 am
I am with Michele as far as starting at Prescott. We have done variations of this day drive for about forty years now. Years ago many hang gliders would be active at Diamond Bluff, which made for very colorful photos. We always stop at garage sales and antique shops. Sometimes we packed a picnic lunch and now with the kids grown, we try different restaurants along the way. Once we went all the way to Galena, Il. before starting back and had to get a motel part way back. Fall is the most spectacular, with all the rich color but dead winter has it’s charm too and then there are the Eagles everywhere. So many neat places to check out. I will normally take about 200 photos on a long ride and end up with maybe a dozen great shots worth framing. MN 60 from Zumbota to Wabasha has it’s charm too!
August 24th, 2011 at 8:15 pm
Marty, when the kids were young, I would take them out to Prescott beach at sunset. So peaceful and gorgeous!
Also, for day trippers, one of my favorite people in all the world is from Prescott, David Geister, who often plays Colonel Snelling at Ft. Snelling, and paints for the historic society AND illustrates children’s books. Prescott never forgets their favorite son, and he does a showing there at least once a year. Trust me, it’s worth going to a showing there to meet Dave.
Anybody who doesn’t like Dave, is a bad, bad person! : (
August 25th, 2011 at 11:56 am
For those of you in it for the ride as much as the destination, start at Prescott, Wisc., across the river from Hastings and take 35 south from there. About 3 mile north of Hager City (across from Red Wing…did you know the Red Wing, MN municipal airport in in Wisconsin?) is the unincorporated village of Diamond Bluff. Cross over the tracks to find the Naughty Hawg, a favorite of bikers (all friendly and nonviolent). On a nice Saturday or Sunday the collection of bikes of all types can be very impressive.
Continue south through Pepin, another good place for food and drink, and keep going on 35 past Nelson and on to Alma, which has a Stillwatery-touristy flavor to it, but still worth the drive and a meander.
For those really in it for the ride/drive, as I and my motorcycling friends are, many of the Alphabet Roads (so named because Wisconsin letters rather than numbers its county roads) to the east of 35 are great fun.
County Road O, starting at 35 south of Diamond Bluff, and not to be confused with County OO that starts from Diamond Bluff, is 8.5 miles of enjoyable twisties meandering next to a stream and coming out at Hiway 10.
Take 10 east to County A and turn south (but not now as it’s torn up for repaving) for 8 more miles of twisties along another stream, coming out on 35 about a mile from Maiden Rock.
Other good Alphabet Roads in the immediate area are County J starting in Stockholm, County SS, County N, and if you head back up to 10, cross the Chippewa River in to Durand which has several good places to stop for a bite.
South and east of the Chippewa River there are even more great, unstraight county roads that could keep you busy cruising for a summer full of weekends.
August 25th, 2011 at 12:52 pm
Don’t most or all of these drives start at home?
September 3rd, 2011 at 9:31 am
63 miles, 1+10 ete, from our casa to the pie shop. the mrs and i split a turkey/ham sandwich on oat bread. quaffed a spring grove root beer, and brought home a apple crisp pie. the bread was fantastic:) i asked the nice lady where she got it, she says ‘the back room, we make it’, can i buy a loaf, no. some action on the rails, an extra added benefit for myself, a closet railhead. two south and one northbound as we ate and toured the main street.
bb
September 3rd, 2011 at 9:32 am
missing two slices topped off with vanilla bean ice cream:)
bb
September 3rd, 2011 at 9:33 am
How was the pie?
September 3rd, 2011 at 9:45 am
i’d say one of the best if not the best apple pie’s we’ve had. a lot of apple pies have crappy crusts, sour apples and no taste. this baby in the box was heavy, the first sign it’d be good. when we cut it there was no air from the filling to the crust, sold pie. a dollop or two of ice cream and we’re in heaven.
throw out the high and low, i’d give it at least 8 forks on the rail scale.
bb
September 4th, 2011 at 8:31 am
here’s the final product:)
bb
September 4th, 2011 at 2:05 pm
One of the best drives I had in my adult life was with a group of friends heading up to Duluth via Superior, WI on a route I’m not sure I could duplicate. We got off I35 somewhere north of Forest Lake taking side roads that parallel I35. I think it was Co Hwy 61. We took the drive near the peak of the season with great views into valleys we drove into and out of.